Why You Don’t Need to Worry About Removing All Your Guitar’s Strings at Once

I’ve read that you should only change strings one at a time, to maintain the stability of the truss rod. I’ve also been told that removing all the strings at once can unbalance the piezo pickup. I need to change the battery in my guitar, but I don’t want to risk causing problems. What should I do?
—Liza Jones

Never fear. Slacking all the strings at once is something I—and every other guitar technician—need to do every day. As with many stories people tell, there is some small basis in fact here, but the reality is that you should proceed without concern. If the piezo pickup is susceptible to imbalance as a result of minute variations in saddle position, then the saddle is most likely too loose or incorrectly fitted, which is likely to cause problems regardless of how you change your strings—an energetic palm mute or an errant case jostle could just as easily cause an issue.

This is one of a handful of common beliefs I encounter, frequently with clients who are making a genuine effort to educate themselves and not do something wrong. I salute the impulse, but the internet is . . . well, let’s just say it’s not always a great source for reliable information.

Another common notion is that truss rods need to be adjusted in small increments, and that these adjustments take hours or days to settle in. It’s possible that some older guitars had inefficient rod designs whose action was not as direct as that of modern rods—but the 1930s Gibsons I work on have very quick-adjusting rods whose action is immediately noticeable. If it really took hours for a rod to take effect, it would be almost impossible to set up a guitar in a factory or shop setting—it would take forever! Similarly, it’s impossible to do fretwork or even clean a grimy fretboard without removing all the string tension. In the course of a setup, I might raise and lower the string tension half a dozen times, and I do so without concern.

Nearly all the rods I have to adjust, from basic single-acting vintage types to modern dual-action ones, address the neck curvature quickly and immediately, and I very seldom notice any drift or delayed action. For this same reason, you can feel confident that if you slack all the strings on your guitar, the neck will return to its prior position after the strings are back up to pitch.

The one big mistake you can make with any kind of rod is using the wrong tool to adjust it. This is where the internet can actually be helpful—look up your guitar’s make and model, and make sure you have the correct wrench or screwdriver to make the adjustment safely. This is not the place to settle for “close enough.” Replacing a stripped truss rod can be a costly and invasive job.

Relief measurements are taken in single-digit thousandths of an inch, so changes are easily measured. Those little credit-card–sized string action gauges are cheap and very useful, and a great addition to your home setup kit. Picking one up may help reassure you that your string changes and battery replacements aren’t throwing your setup out of adjustment. Break out the string winder and get to it!